Wine & Vine: Don't cry for Argentina
Sunday, 1 April 2007
Argentinian wines run second to neighbouring Chile in total UK and Ireland sales.
Surprising, since Argentinia is the world's fifth largest wine producer, with an total output which far outstrips Chile.
Certainly, the aftermath of the Malvinas/Falklands affair 25 years ago last week, did little for UK exports for a decade and more afterwards. But there are more complex reasons for the differences.
Chile geared up for the demands of the international market years ago by ripping out local vines with little export appeal, replacing them with well-known varietals such as cabernet, chardonnay and the like. New technology, including stainless steel fermentationc was a priority.
In contrast, the Argentinians concentrated on traditional mass output of mediocre quality local wines, using the high yield criolla chica vine. This is the same grape as California's mission and Chile's pais, brought to the Argentine several centuries ago by Spanish Jesuits.
But, in the past 10 years, the Argentinians have followed Chile's path in building export potential with well known international varietals, relying on "flying winemakers", to revolutionise production, with heavy investment in advanced technology.
Ironically, way back in the 19th century, waves of immigration from Italy, France and Spain gave a major boost to the Argentinian wine industry. These settlers brought with them native varieties such as bonarda, tempranillo and malbec.
Despite Argentinian export doldrums of the late 20th century, these are now among the wines winning international favour, along with better-known noble French varietals. Cabernet sauvignon is perfectly at home in the irrigated vineyards, so too is chardonnay in higher-altitude (colder) settings.
But, apart from the usual predictables, Argentinia has two sound wines in the red Malbec and the white Torrontes. Malbec, originally from Bordeaux, could be the Argentine vinous emblem, while Torrontes, a light white with a striking floral aroma, has been touted as a possible chardonnay replacement.
Hunter's choice
Two toothsome Tesco tangos reduced from £7.99 to £3.99 until April 17. Tesco Finest Guentota Estate Chardonnay 2006 shows fresh grapefruit citrus with a judicious oak edge on the palate and hefty 13pc alcohol finish.
Tesco Finest Tulum Valley Estate Shiraz 2006 is full 14.5pc frontal with a damson and dark chocolate palate, moderate tannins and lingering finish. A foodie wine, great with beef.
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